2015-11-30
1 小时 5 分钟It's scary every time.
And yet I find myself, it's almost like this magnetic pull, like going back.
And I put myself in that situation, and yet I'm there in those situations at times thinking, what am I doing here?
Like, how did this happen?
Imagine for a moment you're on a surfboard and you're screaming down the face of a 30, 40, 50, 60 foot wave.
A wave that is so forceful, so violent that you literally you're holding on for dear life.
You have a helmet strapped to your head to protect yourself, because if you take a hit with this wave, it could end your life.
Well, that's a pretty regular experience for today's desk.
Well, that's a pretty regular experience for today's guest, Iski Britain.
She's one of the top women big wave surfers in the world, and she hails from Ireland, from surfing royalty, really, where she learned to be a part of the water and had the water part of her life in sort of the jagged cliffs and the pretty cold water of that country.
We spent a lot of time today talking about what it's like to actually be in the throes of that and also how surfing and how big wave surfing in particular really advises life and how it teaches you so much about how to be in the world with grace, with calm, with ease, to deal with massive uncertainty and huge, huge challenge.
Really excited to share this conversation today.
I'm Jonathan Fields.
This is good life project.
It's so good to be hanging out with you.
So it's so funny.
Like, we literally just met through a mutual friend.
And as soon as I heard your story, I was like, I need to talk to you.
And one of the first things that popped into my mind was irish big wave surfer.
I'm like, huh?