Why Chinese people spend so much on food

为什么中国人在“吃”上这么舍得花钱?

Economist

2026-03-01

7 分钟
PDF

单集文稿 ...

  • During the Spring Festival holiday, which this year lasted from February 15th to 23rd, China regroups and regathers.

  • People cross the country on fast trains to join their families,

  • watch dancing robots on TV

  • and hand out red packets of crisp banknotes to younger relatives.

  • But above all, they gather to eat.

  • In a café in Fuzhou, a southern city, locals and tourists ate cheesecake and drank kombucha.

  • One customer ordered wontons wrapped in "swallow skin" sheets, which mash together sweet-potato starch and pounded pork.

  • "I really like eating," said Yu Huan, another customer, who works in fashion in Shanghai.

  • "It's one of the ways I obtain happiness."

  • This year the National Bureau of Statistics (NBS) got into the spirit of things by revealing,

  • for the first time, exactly how much Chinese consumers spend on food.

  • The number emerged from a revision of the consumer-price index.

  • The new weights imply that food (excluding dining out, booze and tobacco,

  • with which it is often mashed together)

  • accounted for 17.2% of household consumption last year.

  • The equivalent figure for America was less than 8%.

  • These percentages confirm China's passion for food.

  • But they also have a less comforting implication.

  • China may be far ahead of America in dancing robots and high-speed trains,

  • but it still lags far behind on one of the oldest measures of economic development: Engel's law.