Is it last orders for the wine industry?

这是否意味着葡萄酒产业的最后时刻?

The Inquiry

2025-12-09

24 分钟
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Changing tastes, climatic conditions, health warnings, economic factors are all creating a perfect storm for the global wine industry. The origins of wine-making date back to around 9,000 years ago, when it was a drink mostly associated with elite society. Since then, it’s had a long association with major occasions like weddings and funerals, as the beverage of choice. And it has been integral to different forms of worship and spirituality. Up until the twentieth century it was even considered a healthy tipple. But demand for wine has been steadily declining across the globe. In France, home to some of the world’s most famous brands, the government has now had to step in to support the producers and their vineyards. And there is increasing competition everywhere from both the beer and spirits industry, who are marketing more alcohol-free or low-alcohol options. So, on The Inquiry this week, we’re asking, Is it last orders for the wine industry? Contributors: Jane Anson, author, wine critic, Bordeaux, France Roderick Phillips, author, Professor of History, Carleton University, Ottawa, Canada Stefano Castriota, author, Professor of Economics, University of Pisa, Italy Peter McAtamney, founder of Wine Business Solutions, New South Wales, Australia Presenter: Charmaine Cozier Producer: Jill Collins Researcher: Evie Yabsley Production management assistant: Liam Morrey Technical producer: Mark Burrows Editor: Tom Bigwood (Photo: A bunch of grapes. Credit: Gabriel Bouys/AFP via Getty Images)
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  • This BBC podcast is supported by ads outside the UK.

  • wherever you get your BBC podcasts.

  • Welcome to the enquiry from the BBC World Service.

  • I'm Charmaine Cozier.

  • Each week, one question, four expert witnesses and an answer.

  • November 2025, southern France.

  • Thousands of winemakers and growers march through the city of Bezier.

  • Many are waving flags and banners.

  • It sounds like a celebration, but it's a major protest.

  • A message on one large green bottle-shaped sign translates as justice for the wine.

  • Falling sales and rising costs are driving the industry to breaking point.

  • There are also other domestic, international, gradual and sudden factors in play.

  • The demonstrators want more government support to navigate the crisis.

  • France isn't the only major producing nation reeling from multiple relentless setbacks.

  • This is a worldwide problem.

  • So this week we're asking, is it last orders for the wine industry?

  • If you had to pick one country to always drink wine from, which one would you choose?

  • It's hard not to say that it would be France.

  • You have the world's most famous examples of pretty much every type of wine.

  • Jane Anson is a wine critic and author of many books, including a wine guide called Inside Bordeaux.