Food for thought: China's culinary dream

西贝事件

Editor's Picks from The Economist

2025-10-02

8 分钟
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A handpicked article read aloud from the latest issue of The Economist. A scandal implicating one of China's's popular middle-market restaurant chains has blown up online. The furore reveals a tension in the evolution of the country's food culture. Listen to what matters most, from global politics and business to science and technology—subscribe to Economist Podcasts+. For more information about how to access Economist Podcasts+, please visit our FAQs page or watch our video explaining how to link your account.
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单集文稿 ...

  • The Economist.

  • Hi there, it's Jason Palmer here,

  • co-host of The Intelligence, our daily news and current affairs podcast.

  • This is Editor's Picks.

  • You're about to hear an article from the latest edition of The Economist, read aloud.

  • Enjoy.

  • Few scandals in China provoke as much outrage as those relating to food.

  • This is perhaps only natural in a country that takes immense and justified pride in its wondrous culinary heritage.

  • Concerns about public safety, corporate responsibility and regulatory capacity all distil into one essential question:

  • can the food on your table be trusted?

  • A furore that has gripped China in recent days poses the question in a different way.

  • It revolves not around safety, but rather around food quality and the very definition of cooking.

  • Anger has erupted at a popular fast-casual restaurant chain, Xibei,

  • which bills its north-western-style food as fresh and family-friendly.

  • Think of it, roughly, as a big upgrade on America's Olive Garden chain with extra-scrumptious roast lamb.

  • Xibei was revealed to be serving dishes made with frozen ingredients, often whipped up in advance in central kitchens.

  • The controversy stings because it touches on deeper anxieties

  • about authenticity in China's hyper-urban landscape and the emergence of new class divisions.

  • It all began innocuously enough, with an acerbic comment from a dissatisfied customer,

  • the kind seen on social media anywhere in the world.