Last call: why is China sobering up?

中国酒文化的变迁

Drum Tower

2025-08-26

26 分钟
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单集简介 ...

China is the world's largest booze market. For millennia, liquor has lubricated social gatherings and business deals. Wedding banquets are referred to as “happy alcohol”, while the celebration to mark a child's first month of life is “full-month alcohol”. But now appetites for drinking are drying up. Alcohol sales are down and a growing number of young Chinese say they're “disgusted” by their country's drinking culture. China's leaders have banned alcohol from official events.  Jiehao Chen, The Economist's China researcher, and Gabriel Crossley, our China correspondent, sample some second-rate baijiu and ask: why is China sobering up? Transcripts of our podcasts are available via economist.com/podcasts. Listen to what matters most, from global politics and business to science and technology—subscribe to Economist Podcasts+.  For more information about how to access Economist Podcasts+, please visit our FAQs page or watch our video explaining how to link your account.
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单集文稿 ...

  • The economist.

  • Think of Chinese drinking culture and steaming cups of oolong might come to mind.

  • But the country's appetite for booze is prodigious.

  • From Baijiu filled banquets to giant pyramids of beer in karaoke bars, drinking filters through all social occasions.

  • That's helped make China the largest liquor market on the planet,

  • accounting for roughly 1/5th of the world's alcohol consumption.

  • But a cocktail of economic, political and social factors is pushing alcohol consumption down.

  • I'm Jiehao Cheng, The Economist's China researcher and Drum Tower producer.

  • This week, I'm joined by Gabriel Crossley, our China correspondent, and we're asking why is China sobering up?

  • This is Drum Tower from The Economist.

  • Hey, Gabriel, welcome back to Drum Tower.

  • Hey, Jiehao, how's it going?

  • I sense hesitation in your tone, coming back to do an episode on alcohol with me.

  • Yeah, I thought I was I was warned there might be a surprise, and that was something sitting on my desk.

  • Well, very recently I was given a bottle of Maotai by a friend of a friend

  • who wanted her daughter to figure out the sort of job and living situation in the UK.

  • It really felt like I'd arrived as an adult.

  • I've I've never been given a bottle of Maotai, I don't think.

  • I'm not there yet.

  • I we should explain what Maotai is, though, for listeners sadly unfamiliar with the drink.