The Economist’s new China column: Chaguan

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Economist

2018-09-13

7 分钟
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  • Given his love of Chinese teahouses, Mr Yang, a retired academic from Chengdu,

  • was born in the right place at a terrible time.

  • Within living memory his home town, the capital of Sichuan province,

  • had boasted more than 600 teahouses, or chaguan.

  • Some were famous for storytellers or opera.

  • Others welcomed bird-lovers, who liked to suspend their pets in cages from teahouse eaves

  • to show off their plumage and singing.

  • Some served as rough-and-ready courtrooms for unlicensed lawyers

  • to "take discussion tea" was to seek mediation.

  • One place might attract tattooed gangsters, another intellectuals.

  • Wang Di of the University of Macau, a scholar of teahouses,

  • cites an old editor who in the 1930s and 1940s ran his journal from a teashop table.

  • Mr Yang, who declined to give his full name, favours Heming teahouse,

  • a lakeside tea garden where patrons may spend hours in bamboo armchairs,

  • reading newspapers, munching melon seeds

  • or paying a professional ear-cleaner to rootle away with metal skewers.

  • But he has known more dangerous times.

  • Soon after first visiting the teahouse as a child in the 1960s,

  • such businesses were targeted when young, fanatical Red Guards roamed his city during the Cultural Revolution.

  • "Back then everyone was busy chanting about revolution on the streets —