Desperate diners: the pricey market for restaurant reservations

绝望的食客:昂贵餐厅预订市场的现状

Editor's Picks from The Economist

2025-07-31

6 分钟
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A handpicked article read aloud from the latest issue of The Economist. Restaurant reservations are getting increasingly hard to come by. Fancy credit cards, corporate subscriptions, and "reservation piracy" are all becoming more common ways to secure a seat at the table. Listen to what matters most, from global politics and business to science and technology—subscribe to Economist Podcasts+. For more information about how to access Economist Podcasts+, please visit our FAQs page or watch our video explaining how to link your account.
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  • The Economist. Hi, this is Ethan Wu, co-host of Money Talks, our business and finance podcast.

  • Welcome to Editor's Picks.

  • We've handpicked an article we recommend from the most recent edition of The Economist.

  • I hope you enjoy.

  • Sex and the City, a hit TV show, is full of tips about love and living in New York.

  • Alas, many of them are not fit for print, but one recommendation is to always have a tampon handy.

  • In an early episode from 1998,

  • Carrie and Samantha are desperate to dine at Manhattan's hottest French bistro.

  • With no reservation and faced with a recalcitrant hostess, the women give up.

  • But when that same hostess finds herself caught short in the toilets,

  • she bashfully asks Carrie for some sanitary supplies.

  • Soon, Carrie and Samantha are seated, martinis in hand.

  • From that moment on, we never had a problem getting a table at Balzac again, Carrie says.

  • Exclusive restaurants have long been alluring.

  • But since the pandemic,

  • when restaurants closed and people were forced to confront the awfulness of their own cooking,

  • Americans have had an insatiable hunger for dining out.

  • Social media influencers have funneled demand towards places where the food is good but the vibes are better.

  • At the most sought after spots, opportune tampons and the old tricks,

  • such as slipping a crisp $100 bill to the maitre d' are not enough.