La la land: how spicy food set China on fire

辣味中国

Drum Tower

2024-06-26

33 分钟
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单集简介 ...

China has many different regional cuisines, but increasingly the local palate is craving spice, or la in Chinese. Look back a few hundred years, though, and chillies were nowhere to be found. David Rennie, The Economist's Beijing bureau chief and Jiehao Chen, a producer of “Drum Tower”, ask: how have chillies become the flavour of contemporary China? Transcripts of our podcasts are available via economist.com/podcasts. Listen to what matters most, from global politics and business to science and technology—subscribe to Economist Podcasts+. 
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单集文稿 ...

  • The Economist.

  • Walk down the street of any city or town in China, and it won't be long before you spot something spicy.

  • Whether it's a hot pot restaurant or an aisle of spicy peanuts in a supermarket.

  • In fact, last year, Meituan, China's biggest food delivery app

  • reported that nearly 80% of restaurants now offer spicy food, a taste known as la in Chinese.

  • But how do we get here?

  • China has so many different regional cuisines.

  • Why is spice becoming this nationwide obsession?

  • I'm David Rennie, The Economist's Beijing Bureau Chief, and Alice is away this week,

  • so I'm joined by our Drum Tower producer, Jiahao Chen, based in London.

  • This week, we're asking, how is it that chili peppers have become the flavor of modern China?

  • And what does that tell us about the China today?

  • This is Drum Tower from The Economist.

  • Jiahao, you're in London.

  • It's good to see you, it's been a while.

  • Yes, it's strange because I'm much more used to speaking to you in person.

  • But we are talking about food, which feels weirdly appropriate.

  • Yes, I do worry that in our dealings with each other, reporting in Beijing together,

  • that I've bored you too much with a lot of my food talks.

  • No, I think, well, you'd probably have a better worry that I'm going to starve to death because you're not here.