“I'm not lovin' it”: why Chinese consumers are turning their backs on foreign fast food

洋快餐失宠

Drum Tower

2024-08-06

38 分钟
PDF

单集简介 ...

American fast food was once a symbol of modernity in China. Pop songs were sung in honour of McDonald's and families flocked to its restaurants. So why are a growing number of Chinese now favouring local brands?  Rosie Blau, co-host of “The Intelligence” podcast and Don Weinland, our China business and finance correspondent, discuss a potted history of American fast food in China and ask: what does the country's changing appetite reveal about China today?  This episode features a short extract of "Story of the Spring", written by Jiang Kairu and Ye Xuquan, composed by Wang Yougui and performed by Dong Wenhua.  Transcripts of our podcasts are available via economist.com/podcasts. Listen to what matters most, from global politics and business to science and technology—subscribe to Economist Podcasts+. 
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单集文稿 ...

  • The Economist.

  • If you're hungry for the gold, you practice.

  • If you're just hungry, you go to McDonald's.

  • 32 years ago, the first McDonald's opened in Beijing.

  • Back then in the 1990s, the arrival of those iconic golden arches in a Chinese city was about far more than Big Macs.

  • The opening of that restaurant right near Tiananmen Square was a sign that China was opening up to the world.

  • McDonald's now has more than 6,000 restaurants all over China

  • alongside thousands of KFCs, Burger Kings, Starbucks, and other foreign chains.

  • But in recent years, the tide has been turning.

  • Homegrown fast-food brands Tastien, Luckin Coffee and others have gained ground.

  • I'm Rosie Bluer, co-host of The Intelligence podcast and former China correspondent for The Economist.

  • Alice and David are both away this week, I'll be your host.

  • I'm here with Don Weinland, our China Business and Finance editor.

  • We're looking at the story of the rise and fall of Western fast food in China,

  • a history of China through its stomach.

  • This week we're asking,

  • what does the changing appetite for fast food in China tell us about changing attitudes to the outside world?

  • This is Drum Tower from The Economist.

  • Don, lovely to see you. How are you doing? How's Shanghai?

  • Hey Rosie, good to see you too.