“Crying In H Mart” Helped Japanese Breakfast’s Michelle Zauner Grieve Her Mother

《在H Mart哭泣》帮助日本早餐的米歇尔·赵纳悼念她的母亲

The Sporkful

艺术

2025-03-24

29 分钟
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Indie musician Michelle Zauner (leader of the band Japanese Breakfast) always had a complicated relationship with her mother, Chongmi. Michelle was born in Seoul and raised in Oregon, where she never felt like she was fully Korean or American. While it was sometimes hard for mother and daughter to understand each other, the thread that kept them together was their shared “Korean appetite,” as Michelle writes in her memoir, Crying in H Mart.
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  • Ever since my mom died, I cry in H Mart.

  • H Mart is a supermarket chain that specializes in Asian food.

  • The H stands for hanarim, a Korean phrase that roughly translates to one armful of groceries.

  • H Mart is where parachute kids flock to find the brand of instant noodles that reminds them of home.

  • It's where Korean families buy rice cakes to make ddeokguk,

  • the beef and rice cake soup that brings in the new year.

  • It's the only place where you can find a giant vat of peeled garlic,

  • because it's the only place

  • that truly understands how much garlic you'll need for the kind of food your people eat.

  • You'll likely find me crying by the banchan refrigerators,

  • remembering the taste of my mom's soy sauce, eggs and cold radish soup.

  • Or in the freezer section holding a stack of dumpling skins,

  • thinking of all the hours that mom and I spent at the kitchen table folding minced pork and chives into the thin dough,

  • sobbing near the dry goods, asking myself, am I even Korean anymore?

  • If there's no one left to call and ask which brand of seaweed we used to buy.

  • This is the spork full.

  • It's not for foodies, it's for eaters.

  • I'm Dan Pashman.

  • Each week on our show, we obsess about food.

  • To learn more about I got some news.