Tall Stories 434: Millionaire’s Row, George Town

荒诞故事 434:乔治城百万富翁街

The Urbanist

艺术

2024-11-12

7 分钟
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Tomás Pinheiro discusses the history of a prestigious street in the capital of Malaysia’s Penang state and assesses some of the new developments taking over the area.  See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
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  • On the northern coast of Malaysia's Penang state capital of Georgetown, there lies a strip where English settlers first built their bungalows and later Chinese tycoons built their castle.

  • Like homes, some are abandoned and crumbling, while others have been swallowed by developments that verge on architectural terrorists.

  • You're listening to Tall Stories, a monocle production brought to you by the team behind the Urbanist Imagine Tuck.

  • In this episode, Thomas Pineiro discusses the history of this still prestigious street and assesses some of the new developments that continue to devour the heritage buildings.

  • Beneath the jumble of modern adze LED signs and air conditioning units, the historical core of Penance Georgetown remains mostly untouched.

  • The air is thick with the scent of curries and incense, the call to prayer echoes five times a day, and Chinese calligraphy covers the facades of endless rows of shop houses.

  • Walking through their arched passageways really feels like stepping back in time.

  • The city's rich history as a multicultural trading port, along with its well preserved authenticity, led to its recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2008, a status shared only with Malacca among the former Strait settlements of British Malaya, but not Singapore, whose historic core was largely demolished during its boom years.

  • In Georgetown, around 4, 000 historic buildings are preserved spanning both the core protected area and its buffer zone.

  • The latter functions as an added layer of protection to maintain the visual context of the historical landscape.

  • Just beyond the buffer zone following the coastline lies Northern Road, known as Millionaires Road.

  • It was here that affluent European settlers built their bungalows in the 19th century.

  • At the edge of the road is the old Protestant cemetery, as old as the city itself, serving as the final resting place for many of them.

  • Their gravestones lie beneath a canopy of frangipani trees with epithets that quietly reveal most met their end in their youth.

  • Between the ages of 18 and 30, overcome by long sea voyages and the harsh realities of life near the equator.

  • Around the turn of the century, most Europeans moved inland, paving the way for Chinese tycoons to take their place.

  • It was their presence that ultimately gave the road its moniker.

  • Their homes were grand displays of opulence, whitewashed in European style, with expansive front lawns and circular driveways.

  • The first of these was Soonstead Mansion, built in the style of a French chateau just a few doors down.

  • Woodview of Old Mansion followed suit, but with the addition of a dome top tower and a tennis court on the front lawn.